Derek Hynd..Finless at J. Bay
Aug 14th, 2008 by Dr. Robert
Lots of attention to the roots of surfing..all to the good.
Here’s an extra-ordinary surfer..having fun..going finless.
My bet is within 2 years the hot-curl will be the current thing.
After that..God only knows!
August 15th, 2008 at 10:40 am
i’m not sure what to make of this whole ‘finless’ ride. no doubt what hynd is doing is incredibly innovative and remarkable to watch, but he’s derek hynd, and you’re not. the last thing i want to see are a bunch of people skimmy, slipping, blowing waves, and generally just flailing about in the water with no fins.
earlier this year i rode a 3 fin bonzer without the center fin (forgot it) and was definitely intrigued by the seemingly increased planing speed it had in the curl. but try and put it on rail and it was a disaster obviously.
August 21st, 2008 at 9:26 am
I watched Duncan Campbell ride a Bonzer “without the center fin” at Oxnard shores in 1978 in front of “Stevie’s ” house. Stevie was the “Mayor of Oxnard Shores,” till he moved to Las Vegas. Duncan surfed as great as always. In 1980 Malcolm Campbell made me a “selciheV llebmaC” Twin Fin which I gave to one of the fine young people at Ventura Surf Shop in 2005. Malcolm’s Twin fin worked great but the “Octafish” is greater.
I am no Derek Hind … I enjoy riding Bonzers.. and I always wear a Helmet. I don’t have any CrimsomTatoos but I have some nice T-Shirts but I never dropped… the soap in a prison.
Peace
August 22nd, 2008 at 7:46 pm
I get bored of watching the spinning and the “hey look at me i gots no fins” thing. The interest for me is in the guy who can do actual power turns like the paipo riders. I’ve seen a couple of nice alaia bottom turns but that’s about it.
I was pretty board myself trying it.
J; I did the same thing in forgetting a center bonzer fin but i did’nt even know till the 2nd wave. The 1st wave was a lazy bottom turn into a nice barrel. Wave #2 held some conseQuences.
I heart center fins.
August 29th, 2008 at 6:29 pm
I gotta get some video of Justin Phillips riding his homebuilt alaia—shredding!